Hungary is divided in two by the Danube, which flows from north to south. As a result, the Magyars, who arrived from the east, refer to the country's western side as Dunántúl, Hungarian for “beyond the Danube” – which is where the name Transdanubia originates.
Even further back into history, the region was conquered by Roman Emperor Augustus in 35 B.C. A number of today's towns were originally Roman settlements and there is plenty more evidence of their stay in Pannonia, as the province was known.
At least as far as tourism is concerned, the region now has a Balaton-shaped hole in the middle, which actually makes it rather difficult to define. Generally speaking, since the regime change, northern Transdanubia has developed faster than other parts of the country as a result of its proximity to Austria. This is reflected by the rapid development of spa hotels and golf courses, which have attracted foreign investment and holidaymakers in equal measure. High-quality, low-cost dental treatment is also a boom market.
Historically, the areas to the north west were also spared the destruction and economic stagnation brought by the Ottoman Empire. Although the Habsburg monarchy and oppressive feudal economy were by no means popular, a number of impressive baroque castles were built to demonstrate the might of landowners, most notably Eszterházy. The cities of Kőszeg, Sopron, Győr and Tata kept much of their medieval charm and added a generous helping of Baroque splendour. Further east, most towns have their own fortresses, each with a unique tale of brave but ultimately futile resistance. Remarkably, the Benedictine Abbey at Pannonhalma is a survivor from the tenth century, and incorporates plenty of diverse architectural styles to show for it.
To the south of Lake Balaton, the rolling Mecsek Hills are excellent for cycling, hiking or horse-riding, but it is the red wine region of Villány-Siklós that steals the show, with the area around Szekszárd not far behind. The beautiful old town of Pécs, one of Hungary’s liveliest, is an ideal starting point for exploring the area.